Monument Valley - Icon Of The West

Monument Valley Tribal Park is a unique place. There is no other place like this on earth. This area is one of the planet's most scenic wonders, and the rock formations in Monument Valley are some of the world's most amazing rock formations, pinnacles, mesas, spires, and cliffs. It is an area of unbelievable beauty.

Hollywood has taken advantage of this area, and Monument Valley has been the backdrop for many movies and TV commercials. One of the Tribal Park's amazing spires is The Totem Pole, perhaps the world's tallest and skinniest spire. The Navajo Tribe has strictly stuck to their rule of 'no rock climbing' in the park, but with Hollywood money, we have seen Clint Eastwood and George Kennedy "climb" the Totem Pole, McGyver land a handglider on the Totem Pole's summit, and Xerox put a desk with a secretary on top of the Pole's summit as well.

Monument Valley is an icon of the West. Its spectacular rock formations are beautiful from far away and up close. It is like a Holy Land for many, and a place of worship for others. Mother Earth is truly a land of wonder.

Left: Rooster Rock
Right: Totem Pole

© CT-Graphics - Christine Till

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Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park

Monument Valley, straddling the border of northeastern Arizona and southeastern Utah of the Colorado Plateau, preserves some of the most striking and recognizable landscapes of sandstone buttes, mesas and spires in the entire Southwest. The area is entirely within the Navajo Indian Reservation near the small Indian town of Goulding, established in 1923 as a trading post.

The impressive sandstone formations: buttes, spires, and towers - the geological monuments that gave Monument Valley its name - are the result of centuries and millennia of erosion and uplift. Red sandstone cliffs and spires are predominantly made of Cutler Formation sandstone from the Permian period of around 160 million years ago. Volcanic action also created some of the formations in Monument Valley, such as Chiastla Butte and Agathla Peak.

Monument Valley is more than just a park or nature preserve; it is home to Navajo people who have preserved their traditions, their language, their art forms, their pastoral sheep-herding way of life, and their relation of harmony and respect with the land. Today, Monument Valley is protected as a Navajo Tribal Park. The scene of countless western movies, the valley has come to symbolize the open spaces and rugged landscape of the American West.

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Monument Valley - The Classic View

Monument Valley (Navajo: Tsé Biiʼ Ndzisgaii, meaning valley of the rocks) is perhaps the most famous example of the classic American West landscape. Located within the Navajo Nation near the Four Corners on the border of Arizona and Utah, this region of the Colorado Plateau is characterized by a cluster of vast sandstone buttes, the largest reaching 1,000 ft (300 m) above the valley floor.

This iconic "Wild West" landscape feels incredibly familiar - the Monument Valley Navajo Tribal Park has been the backdrop for numerous western movies, ranging from the films of John Wayne to 'Back to the Future 3', 'Easy Rider', 'Thelma and Louise' and 'Forrest Gump'. Ansel Adams, Georgia O’Keeffe and Annie Leibovitz have also captured the timeless beauty of Monument Valley. The Valley has helped to make each of these photographers famous.

As a result, it is difficult to come away with some great photographs without having them be a cliche. But no image can possibly capture the scope of this valley and how magnificent it is. John Ford, who filmed Westerns in the valley, called it the "most complete, beautiful and peaceful place on earth."

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Mexican Hat Rock

Mexican Hat, near the Four Corners in between Monument Valley and Bluff, Utah, is named after a geological marvel of erosion. The persistent sands, wind, and water of time have sculpted the sandstone of the Mexican Hat Rock into what it is today. Sombrero, the Spanish word for the Mexican Hat was too difficult to spell, so Mexican Hat's well read town founders stuck to their guns on the English version of the word.

The surrounding scenery is exceptional. The Navajo Tapestry - wavy geometric colors in the rock strata - makes a colorful backdrop to the desert landscape, featuring 1,200 foot sandstone cliffs at the edge of Cedar Mesa, deep, layered canyons of the San Juan River, vast sandy desert plains, and a wide valley studded with isolated red rock buttes and mesas. The greenery along the water's edge contrasts vividly with the swirling reds and grays of the canyon walls.

The Navajo Indian Reservation lies on the other side of the river, and a major portion of Mexican Hat's population is Native American. Monument Valley and Valley of the Gods are nearby scenic attractions. The Arizona border is about ten miles to the south as the crow flies, but much further by road.

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Canyon De Chelly - A Blend Of Cultures

Reflecting one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes of North America, the cultural resources of Canyon de Chelly - including distinctive architecture, artifacts, and rock imagery - exhibit remarkable preservational integrity that provides outstanding opportunities for study and contemplation. The National Park Service and the Navajo Nation are actively working together to manage park resources.

Numerous side canyons lead from the main ones. Lining these canyons are several hundred pre-Columbian cliff dwellings, built at the base of red sandstone cliffs or in caves on the steep canyon walls. They cover a longer period than any other ruins in the Southwest, dating between 350 and 1300 ce. Relics of the Basket Maker culture have been found under those of the later Cliff Dweller and Pueblo cultures. Their homes and petroglyphs tell us their stories. The Navajo people settled in Canyon de Chelly long after the Anasazi (ancient ones) had vanished.

Chelly (pronounced day Shay) is a Spanish modification of the Navajo word Tséyiʼ, meaning "canyon" (literally "inside the rock" ). Many American Indians still enjoy life in the Southwest, and some Navajo still call Canyon de Chelly in the northeast corner of Arizona 3 miles from Chinle, AZ home. Their modern homes and farms occupy the canyon bottoms.

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Mummy Cave Ruin Canyon Del Muerto

Mummy Cave Overlook in Canyon del Muerto, seen from Mummy Cave Overlook in Canyon de Chelly, is of a large group of ruins named following the discovery of two mummies found in the talus slope below. Canyon del Muerto (Spanish for "Canyon of the Dead"), reportedly also took its name from this find.

Mummy Cave Ruin sits within two separate overhangs several hundred feet above the canyon floor. The main structure is an impressive, angular, fort-like building with a three storey tower, sat on a projecting, sheer-walled buttress. There are many other ruined buildings at either side (over 80 rooms in total), in two deep alcoves near the base of the cliffs.

The interpretive sign at the site says that habitation began here in 300 AD, making it one of the oldest Ancestral Pueblo sites in the canyon. The center section is thought to have been built around 1280 AD by people who moved here from the Mesa Verde area as the structures resemble the Mesa Verde style.

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Canyon De Chelly White House Ruins

White House Overlook is Canyon de Celly's most popular overlook since it lies opposite the famous White House Ruins, an 80-room settlement scenically situated beneath a graceful, slightly overhanging cliff streaked with desert varnish.

White House Ruin stands out above lower ruins in a sandstone cave. These ruins were built by the Anasazi people. Anasazi is Navajo for "the ancient ones." This is the only place in Canyon De Chelly where non-Navajos may hike unescorted into the canyon. The Park Service has improved an old Anasazi trail from the Canyon's edge to its bottom.

Originally, the entire ruin was available, but after tens of thousands of tourists who chose to take a souvineer, the ruin has been fenced off. The ground below the ruins that was once tiled with pot shards discarded by the uphill residents, is now bare dirt.

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Canyon De Chelly Near White House Ruins

If the rocks in Canyon de Chelly could talk they would tell you that for nearly 5,000 years, people have lived in these canyons - longer than anyone has lived uninterrupted anywhere in North America. It preserves ruins of the early indigenous tribes, including the Ancient Pueblo Peoples (also called Anasazi) and Navajo.

Canyon de Chelly is entirely owned by the Navajo Tribal Trust of the Navajo Nation. Approximately 40 Navajo families still have their homes, raise livestock, and farm the lands in these canyons. They are connected to a landscape of great historical and spiritual significance - a landscape composed of places infused with collective memory.

Over 30 million years, erosion carved towering cliffs, that now rise 1,000 feet off the canyon floor, and created an abundance of picturesque vistas of rocky outcroppings and dry riverbeds. Canyon de Chelly is indeed a magical place.

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Canyon De Chelly From Face Rock Overlook

Canyon de Chelly National Monument is located on the Navajo Nation and is about 84,000 acres of gorgeous land which has more than 4,000 years of human occupation. That makes this land one of the longest continuously inhabited landscapes of North America.

Canyon de Chelly has thousands of years of perserved culture like cliff dwelling architecture, artifacts, and rock art. The National Park Service and the Navajo Nation share resources and continue to work in partnership to manage this breathtakingly beautiful national monument. Canyon de Chelly National Monument is part one of Heaven aka the Navajo Nation.

Face Rock Overlook provides a dizzying glimpse of the ever-deepening canyon. Here you gaze 1,000 feet down to the bottom. The smooth top of this cliff shows how erosion has sculpted it.

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Canyon De Chelly - View From Sliding House Overlook

Canyon de Chelly (pronounced "De Shay") in Arizona was established in 1931 as a National Monument encompassing three major canyons. The steep stained walls preserve ancient ruins of the once thriving Anasazi Indians. There are over 700 ruin sites, petroglyphs and cliff dwellings from the prehistoric Anasazi and historic Navajo periods.

The Navajo know this prehistoric Anasazi village site as Kin�hoozhi, which means 'Sliding House'. It is an apt description. The dwellings were constructed upon a steeply sloping ledge, and even the ingenius Anasazi builders were unable to keep many of the walls from slipping. Despite the precarious footing, evidence suggests that at one time this was a large village of from 30 to 50 rooms. Occupation of the site probably began around AD 900 and continued for about 300 years.

Navajo people still live within the Canyon de Chelly National Monument and farm the fertile valleys the way their ancestors did centuries ago. Natural depressions at the Sliding House Overlook collect water, still sometimes used by the Navajo.

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Wheatfields Lake - Chuska Mountains

Wheatfields Lake is a lake in the heart of the Navajo Indian Nation in Arizona, just east of Canyon de Chelly National Monument.

Lake Wheatfields is one of the most popular destinations for fishing, camping, picnics and other outdoor adventures in Navajoland. You can cast your line just a few feet off the road, or you can drive around to the opposite side of the lake and launch your fishing boat near the base of the Chuska Mountains. Navajo permits are required, and can be purchased at the store on the lake.

If you haven't tried fishing on the Navaho reservation, it's time to make a trip. Lake Wheatfields may be a little out of your way, but it's well worth it. The scenery is breathtaking, and the lake offers excellent trout fishing.

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Window Rock Arizona

Window Rock's major local landmark, the rock-with-hole-through-it (Navajo: tségháhoodzání) - rendered in English as "Window Rock" - is a place of unsurpassed beauty and power. The "Window" has an arch of about sixty feet. When you gaze up through the Window, your view is of the heavens. Whether you see rain or sunshine, the view is just as spectacular.

Until 1936, the area was sparsely populated and known only by its ceremonial name Niʼ A³níiʼgi ("Center of the World"), but this is the place that the Dine, or Navajo, people have made their home, even though historians tell us that they have arrived here within historical times and have their ancient roots much farther to the north. Today the city of Window Rock (Navajo: Tségháhoodzání) is the seat of government and capital of the Navajo Nation, the largest territory of a sovereign Native American nation in North America.

Window Rock is a place that can strike you as either barren or beautiful, depending on the time you take to understand it. I subscribe to the latter view, with the beauty coming not just from the scenery but from the culture and people. It is worth visiting, and respecting when you are interacting with it.

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Navajo Code Talkers - Navajo People

They were a small band of warriors who created an unbreakable code from the ancient language of their people and changed the course of modern history.

Known as Navajo Code Talkers, they were young Navajo men who transmitted secret communications on the battlefields of WWII. At a time when America's best cryptographers were falling short, these modest sheepherders and farmers were able to fashion the most ingenious and successful code in military history. They drew upon their proud warrior tradition to brave the dense jungles of Guadalcanal and the exposed beachheads of Iwo Jima.

Serving with distinction in every major engagement of the Pacific theater from 1942-1945, their unbreakable code played a pivotal role in saving countless lives and hastening the war's end.

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Diné Tah 'Among The People' Scenic Road

Because the Dine' Tah "Among the People" Scenic Road crosses the border into New Mexico, it is broken into two segments in Arizona: from Chinle running northeast around Canyon de Chelly National Monument and then east to the New Mexico border, and a second piece from Lupton (on Interstate 40) running north through Window Rock to the New Mexico border. This is a scenic and historic 100-mile route through part of the Navajo Nation, leading past Ancestral Puebloan structures, cliffside dwellings and many sites of rock art. The countryside itself is spectacular rugged desert outback punctuated by mountain chains capped with verdant pine forests and cut by deeply eroded canyons.

All the materials that make up the sandstones were laid down more than 100 million years ago, at times when this area was under water and during one long period when this was an absolutely barren desert covered with wind-blown sand dunes up to 1,000' feet thick. Over the millenia this area was covered over again and again with other materials, compressing that sand, silt and mud from long ago. Then about 65 million years ago, the whole area was suddenly pushed up as the Colorado Plateau and all that newer, softer material eroded away, leaving what we see now.

Diné Tah "Among the People" Scenic Road (Indian Route 12) meanders through the Navajo Indian Reservation and its red rock vistas. As travelers head north, they become immediately aware of the change in their surroundings. Gone are the infrastructure and busy activity of cities, and instead open land stretches out, accented with striking rock formations.

© CT-Graphics - Christine Till

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