Prague is like a good flirt - she only reveals
as much leg as you need to see to keep you interested, but the anticipation and
the eventual sublimation is always worth the wait.
She's a labyrinth of
streets, alleys, passages, staircases, yellow streetlights, background sounds,
cigarette smoke and drunken voices.
This is no New York City with its 42nd
Streets and numeric grids. The other day I drank red wine in a cellar next to an
Irish pub in Old Town; I do not know if I will ever be able to find my way back
there again, and I like that. New streets and pubs and bookstores and people and
suspicious smells are turning up daily and nightly.
Prague is one of the few
cities I've been to - no, the ONLY city I've been to - that really knows how to
light its architecture. At night, the castle is floodlit and it glows iridescent
above the Vlatava and Charles Bridge like some ethereal anachronism, but it is
completely accessible and night walks through it have become a routine.
In
contrast to Los Angeles, where it's a pleasant surprise to find a building older
than my father, being able to sit on a fountain at one in the morning and look
up at St. Vitus, the very Gothic church within the castle walls, gives me a
sense of place and history, because Prague is a city in a country that has been
in the middle of myriad empires, wars, rebellions, atrocities and struggles for
national identity. Living in a city where all this can be felt like mist after
rain is offsetting and a good slap in the face, since members of our generation
usually (and sadly) think of George Lucas when they hear about empires and rebel
armies.
If there were two words I had to choose when describing Prague it
would be 'mysterious' and 'beautiful'.
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