Budweis - Namesti Premysla Otakara II

České Budějovice (also known as Budweis in German and English) is in South Bohemia, in the Czech Republic. It is the home of the REAL Budweiser beer (Budvar beer in Czech), not the poor American Anheuser-Busch (A-B) copy. This prosperous and lively town was founded in 1265 by the Czech King Premysl Otakar II on the confluence of the Vltava and Malse Rivers. During the communist era the town used to be gritty and industrial, and served mainly as a gateway to southern Bohemia. It is amazing to see how the town has been renewed and cleaned up after the fall of the Iron Curtain. České Budějovice's medieval grid plan leads inevitably to the town's showpiece, the magnificent náměstí Přemysla Otakara II. This perfectly quadratic cobblestone market square is one of the largest squares in central Europe. It is lined with magnificent, supremely elegant baroque buildings that are testifying to the last three centuries of German burgher power, but it's the square's 18th-century arched and barrel-vaulted arcades, its magnificent Baroque radnice (town-hall), whose clock tinkles out tunes, and the octagonal baroque Samson's Fountain – once the only tap in town – that make the greatest impression. Nearby you can find the famous erratic boulder. It is the last remains of the original paving and it is said to mark the place where executions were held. The wooden benches around the Fountain of Samson are the usual meeting place for the people of Budejovice. Watching them is a great way to see a slice of everyday life in the Czech Republic.

© CT-Graphics - Christine Till

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Prague - Mysteriously Beautiful

Prague is like a good flirt - she only reveals as much leg as you need to see to keep you interested, but the anticipation and the eventual sublimation is always worth the wait.
She's a labyrinth of streets, alleys, passages, staircases, yellow streetlights, background sounds, cigarette smoke and drunken voices.
This is no New York City with its 42nd Streets and numeric grids. The other day I drank red wine in a cellar next to an Irish pub in Old Town; I do not know if I will ever be able to find my way back there again, and I like that. New streets and pubs and bookstores and people and suspicious smells are turning up daily and nightly.
Prague is one of the few cities I've been to - no, the ONLY city I've been to - that really knows how to light its architecture. At night, the castle is floodlit and it glows iridescent above the Vlatava and Charles Bridge like some ethereal anachronism, but it is completely accessible and night walks through it have become a routine.
In contrast to Los Angeles, where it's a pleasant surprise to find a building older than my father, being able to sit on a fountain at one in the morning and look up at St. Vitus, the very Gothic church within the castle walls, gives me a sense of place and history, because Prague is a city in a country that has been in the middle of myriad empires, wars, rebellions, atrocities and struggles for national identity. Living in a city where all this can be felt like mist after rain is offsetting and a good slap in the face, since members of our generation usually (and sadly) think of George Lucas when they hear about empires and rebel armies.
If there were two words I had to choose when describing Prague it would be 'mysterious' and 'beautiful'.

© CT-Graphics - Christine Till

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I Walked the Streets of Prague

Walking through Prague today, it is hard to imagine the horrors of the Prague Spring and the Soviet occupation, and harder still to bring to the mind's eye the reign of the Nazis when it was under the Protectorate of Bohemia and Moravia. They say 'time heals all wounds', and this city's wounds, if not healed, are well faded. And maybe that's not a bad thing. Prague demands to be wandered through to find the soul of the city in your own way. Walking Prague, one is suddenly assaulted by a feeling that the boundaries between the past and the present are dissolving. Wandering these Gothic medieval cobblestone streets is breathtaking and every moment becomes precious.

© CT-Graphics - Christine Till

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